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Once you own a Jointer and a Thicknesser, be it individual machines or a combo like yours truly, a whole new world opens up. No longer do you have to hunt down those elusive timber sizes that your latest plan demands. And, in particular, old reclaimed timber gains a very special appeal.

Not only due to it usually being obtained at the right price i. Now, owning these very nice machines presents one small problem. At some stage, you will have needed to either buy a new set of blades, or have your blades professionally sharpened. In addition, getting small nicks in the blades is, unfortunately, very easy to do. The Veritas Jointer Blade Sharpener as found on the shelves of woodworking stores.

So, after grabbing your nice new or re-sharpened set of blades and fitting them in your machine, you proceed to plane down those nice pieces of reclaimed wood you picked up. It is usually then that you well me look at your Little Wizard metal detector hanging unused on the wall! So, its Saturday and you really wanted to start making your latest project but you only have half the timber planed and you are not looking forward or even going to attempt to hand-plane the rest.

What can you do? Sharpen them yourself of course! A commercial sharpening service or a sophisticated home grinder is necessary for badly nicked blades. It clamps blades up to 8" wide including hand-plane blades for sharpening on PSA-backed abrasives. Just stick the abrasive to a flat surface plate glass works well , adjust the elevating screw until the bevel is flat on the abrasive, and use it as you would any other honing guide.

After basic sharpening, switch to a fine abrasive, and hone a fine micro-bevel. Two position stops ensure successive blades are honed identically. It is both easy and effective, letting you quickly restore blades that you would probably let become far duller before sending out for service. Setting up for some sharpening action. Instructions are easy to read and follow.

Here we have some plate glass and various grits of sandpaper ready to go. Fit and finish of the Blade Sharpening jig was very good and is up to the standard that I have come to expect from all Veritas products. The Jig is made of cast aluminium, which has been painted black, and has five slots in the front section and a threaded hole in the rear arm. Another two brass knurled knobs are fitted in the remaining slots.

These are used as the position stops so that subsequent blades can be easily inserted into the same position as the first. A long brass bolt, including a stop nut, is fitted in the rear arm and is used to set the angle of the jig.

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The jig and its fittings all feel very solid and the knurled knobs are fairly easy to adjust. The pressure sensitive adhesive PSA backed silicon carbide sandpaper provided is top quality but I was a bit disappointed that only a half sheet was supplied. The instructions provided are in the form of a four-page leaflet but they are quite comprehensive, well written and give the user a step-by-step guide to the use of the jig, as well as a troubleshooting section plus hints and tips along the way.

After giving them a good read, I felt quite confident to start using the jig.

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There is only one required item that is not supplied and that is a dead flat surface to place the PSA abrasive on in preparation for sharpening. They can also supply these, if required, in tempered glass for safety.

Another alternative they suggest is to use the infeed or outfeed table of the Jointer — I guess they assume you have one if you bought their Jig! Setting the blade into the U-clamps on the jig.

As I already use the Scary Sharp sandpaper method for general sharpening, I had a nice thick piece of plate glass already set-up glued to a piece of chipboard so that the edges cannot be easily damaged. So, it was a simply matter of removing the small pieces of sandpaper and cleaning it up in preparation for applying the large PSA abrasive.

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  • I also stuck down another coarser piece of 3M abrasive next to the supplied one. I did this because I would need to grind out some nicks from my blades before sharpening and honing them - more on this later. Here we have blackened the bevel with ink to ensure correct, and most even setting of the blade in the sharpening jig.

    I chose a set of blades that had a couple of small nicks in them.

    Veritas Jointer Blade Sharpener

    The same blades were also quite dull from extended use. Following the instructions, the first job was to flatten the bottom face of the blade. After several passes over the abrasive, our ink has been removed quite evenly, verifying the correct placement and angle of the blade in the jig.

    This is done without using the jig and is achieved by simply placing the face of the blade on the sandpaper and sliding it around in a figure eight pattern. You can tell you are done when it is nice and shiny, indicating all machining marks have been removed. Next I fitted the blade into the Jig finally and commenced setting it in position. Next, I lightly tighten the clamps and then turned the jig over and adjusted the blade position in the jig.

    Once I had it right, I tightened up the clamps to lock it in. These two nuts will make it much easier to set up the second blade in the set later on. It is a little tough to see in this picture, but this blade has a couple of nicks in it that need attention! Ok, my blade was installed but there was one last thing I needed to do and that was to set the angle adjusting screw on the arm of the jig. The aim here is to get the blade bevel in complete contact with the abrasive sheet by winding the adjusting screw up or down.

    To do this, you take a couple of test stokes on the abrasive and then check were the material is being removed from and adjust as appropriate. I found that taking a black felt marker and painting the whole bevel made this setting easier to achieve as it was simpler to see were the bevel was making contact.

    Once I had it set up so that all the black ink was being removed, I locked the adjusting screw by tightening its locking nut. Now that the bevel angle was set, I could finally proceed to sharpen the blade. As my blade had a few small nicks, I started with my coarser 3M paper and commenced sliding the jig back and forth. Veritas recommend that pressure be mainly applied during the push stroke, as this will stop a wire edge from forming on the top of the leading edge.

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    They also suggest that you use both hands and spread your fingers out, putting even pressure on the blade. Once I got the hang of holding the jig, I managed to get a nice rhythm going but it did take a little while to remove enough metal along the whole blade edge so that the nicks were completely removed.

    Now that my blade was nick free, I commenced the actual sharpening on the supplied PSA paper using the same procedure. This did not take long at all and I soon had a nice shiny bevel along the complete blade length. Ok, my blade was sharp but not incredibly sharp so time to create a micro-bevel. To do this, the rear adjusting screw is screwed down about half a turn and then locked in place. I then placed the jig on the fine abrasive again and moved it back and forth until I had a nice polished micro-bevel along the blade.

    Now it was sharp! Running the blade over the PSA abrasive to sharpen our blade. All right, I had one nice sharp blade, on to the second one in the set. I managed to set-up, grind and sharpen this blade much faster due to now being quite familiar with the jig. Now, as I had removed a fair bit of metal from the first blade when grinding out the nicks, as mentioned in the instructions, I had to ensure that I removed the same or close to the same amount from the second blade.

    So a little bit of checking was also required while I was removing the nicks on the second blade. However, it was not long before I had two nick free and very sharp jointer blades.

    I must say that installing the blade was a bit fiddly the first time I tried it but the second blade was much easier to fit particularly since the stops were now in the right position. Compare this shot after we have used the Veritas Jointer Blade Sharpener to remove the nicks and sharpen the blade to the picture above.

    You can certainly see the difference! The actual sharpening of blades is quite easy but removing nicks from them does take a bit of elbow grease. In fairness, Veritas do say that to remove nicks and chips from blades, it is best done on a machine first grinder or belt sander before using the jig but they do say that you can use the jig to do it as well. The jig is not just limited to Jointer blades. As pointed out in the instructions, it is quite capable of sharpening Hand Plane blades as well by simply changing the clamp positions.

    Unpacking the product

    One little point. All in all though, the Veritas Jointer Blade Sharpener is a winner in my book and I know it will save me time, money and not to mention the hassle of sending blades out to be sharpened. Now, were did I put that nice old Cedar and my Little Wizard metal detector?? You can order this item online at www. Home Reviews Tool Review Index.

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    What is it?

    The Veritas Jointer Blade Sharpener as found on the shelves of woodworking stores So, after grabbing your nice new or re-sharpened set of blades and fitting them in your machine, you proceed to plane down those nice pieces of reclaimed wood you picked up. What is it? Unpacking the product The unit comes shrink wrapped on a cardboard display board and contains the following The Blade Sharpening Jig itself One half sheet of 15 micron grit adhesive backed sandpaper Printed Instructions Setting up for some sharpening action.

    Setting Up There is only one required item that is not supplied and that is a dead flat surface to place the PSA abrasive on in preparation for sharpening. Here we have blackened the bevel with ink to ensure correct, and most even setting of the blade in the sharpening jig Ok, I had my lapping surface prepared, on to the sharpening. In Use I chose a set of blades that had a couple of small nicks in them.

    Conclusions I must say that installing the blade was a bit fiddly the first time I tried it but the second blade was much easier to fit particularly since the stops were now in the right position.